Friday, May 24, 2013

McCall's M6653 Misses' Top using Denyse Schmidt Cotton Voile

I have been so determined not to purchase any more clothing. I have been spending all my spare time making more items, so I can wear something me-made every day of the week at work. I owe this all to the gals over at Join the Challenge: Sew Your Own Wardrobe For a Year! They rock! Check them out and get inspired!

I made this blouse just in time for hot weather. This was fun and a breeze to put together.

This is McCall's M6653 Misses' Tops pattern. I made style B. Although the pattern picture is rather dressy, I thought the silhouette looked casual. Is that a drawing of a Flashdance sweatshirt? This is really versatile, depending on the fabric used. Instructions suggested lining, but I will wear a small knit top underneath, so I did not line mine.

I didn't have a clue how this would look on my body, so I made a muslin. It was a pleasant surprise!

The pattern layout indicates that the blouse should be cut on the cross-grain. When I went to pick out fabric, I eliminated several voile prints with a vertical direction (mostly flowers). I didn't think they'd look good growing sideways.

The fabric I chose was Greenfield Hill Voile - "Blueberry Coterie" by Denyse Schmidt for Free Spirit. This geometric print looks good no matter how you cut it. I think I got it for $9.00/yard on clearance. Oh, yeah!

Without a lining, I needed to finish the raw edges at the neckline, sleeves, and waist. I chose to finish all the edges with bias binding, using the same fabric. To match the look of the bias binding, I flat felled all the seams.

This turned out so well, I made another one of this pattern, but I have not taken a picture yet. What a feeling!

Now, what are you making? I'd love to hear!

Friday, May 3, 2013

Vogue V2948 Misses' Pants Today's Fit by Sandra Betzina

This is the best fitting pair of pants I have ever made!

The pattern is: Vogue V2948 Misses' Pants Today's Fit by Sandra Betzina.

I was going to link to Vogue, but as of right now, this pattern is no longer listed in Today's Fit or Out of Print. Fortunately, if you take either of Sandra's Craftsy classes,  Pant Fitting Techniques or Pant Construction Techniques, it comes free with the class. I took both classes, so I happen to have an extra copy of this pattern. If anyone wants the pattern, just email me. It includes all sizes.

I was excited to see the measurements on the pattern back, with more realistic sizing. For most pattern companies, I'm a size 10 in bust, 14 in waist, and 12 in hips.  I do not have 10+ inches difference between bust and waist! Why do they make patterns like that? In Today's Fit, I'm a straight size B. Letters sound so much better, I think.

With help from the ladies at Sew Your Own Wardrobe For a Year Challenge, I mustered up the courage to make these. I kept watching Sandra talk about them, and her samples in class looked great in many different fabrics.

I did worry that this style, with the extra seams in the front and back leg, would look kinda weird on me. Somehow, it works, even if you don't want to draw attention to them. Sandra had variations using piping, fabric strips,  flat felled seams, and decorative / topstitching.

The construction order makes perfect sense for fitting as you go. You can take in more at the side seams after applying the waistband for a better fit. That's exactly what I needed.

I bought this weird fabric on clearance at Supposedly it's stretch cotton with some metallic thread thrown in there. I fully expected it to catch spark in the dryer. It looks really flashy, maybe only appropriate for a Christmas party. I thought it'd make a great test garment. The fabric texture is the same on the front and back. It took awhile for me to figure out how to cut it, because I wanted the weave to be a mirror image on the front pieces, to make it more flattering.

Here's the front before pressing the pockets. I love these pockets.

And here is the back view. I really dig her idea of using a tab to keep that zipper in check. There really is an invisible zipper in there. I can hardly believe it myself!

Now, I need to find some better fashion fabric to make another pair for work.