Monday, January 2, 2012

Plain and Simple Superfantastic Shirt from Hot Patterns HP 1029

I have not made a shirt in 5 years, and I sold off all my patterns with notions and machines, when I broke my wrists.  I thought I'd give this pattern a try. It says "Plain & Simple" so why not?

I forgot how long it takes (for me) to make a garment, which may or may not be wearable without adjustments. It seemed like a gamble compared to making a quilt top.

I found this Alexander Henry fabric irresistible. It's Nicole's Prints - Midnight Pastoral Sheeting in Light Blue on Natural. For some reason, I thought if Scarlet can make a dress from her curtains, maybe I can make a shirt from toile? eek. Well, at least I can wear it on a Friday, Hawaiian Shirt day, at the office, when I'm not feeling too vulnerable.

When I cut out the pattern pieces, I was reminded what a challenge this front placket could be. I've put a symmetrical interfaced yoke on the front of a shirt, but I don't think I've ever applied a placket with pleat. Thankfully the instructions urged me, with humor, to mark the fabric with all the lines for cutting and folding.

I confess, my favorite old shirt pattern had cut-on front plackets and a 1-piece convertible collar, so this made me nervous. 

I got a new blue marking pen and diligently marked all the lines. I was afraid they would not wash out, but they did.

Then I watched all three of Hot Patterns' You Tube videos on this shirt.

There were no instructions on stitching the area below the placket or placing the buttons, so I just guessed based on the pattern picture. Then I did the bust darts. Whew! Shirt front - giant hurdle jumped.
I pleated the center back and attached the yokes. This is my favorite method for adding a yoke to a shirt, encasing the front and back of the shirt in the yoke seems and then turning right-side out.

The sleeves were enough of a nightmare, I completely forgot to take pictures. I slashed and bound the plackets ok.They were not too narrow, at least, and I covered the slash points.
I did bother to baste and ease the shoulder seams when I found out that pinning wouldn't be enough to prevent puckers. I still got a few puckers that could not be ironed out. There were no markings on the sleeve to indicate where to attach to the top of the shoulder. 
This is probably rudimentary, but I was used to matching a notch at the top of the sleeve with a notch at the side of the yoke, so I would know where to set in the sleeve. I have a bubble on the back of the upper arm sleeves, so I'm thinking that's where I rotated the sleeve head poorly when attempting to gather and center at top? Boy do I feel dumb.
Then, I assembled and attached the two piece collar. I followed instructions to start in the middle of the collar and work to each end. 

I thought it looked great by itself, but after attaching to the bodice, the collar stand has a dreadful overhang on the fronts of the shirt at the placket. Is there anything I can do to avoid this, other than ripping out and trying again?

I made the smallest size on the patter, a 6, and it was still loose on me. Overall, this looks much better on my dress form, Stella. She's a size Medium. The bust darts look so much more flattering on her! Actually, this is kinda tight on her in the back, but she's working it.

This is her first garment, and it may be staying with her for awhile.

Is this toile completely inappropriate for garments, or just plain silly?
What's the most ridiculous fabric you've used to make clothing?
Any suggestions on the construction?